Sultan Ullah Baig: A Mountaineer Lost in the Shadows of Rakaposhi
In the early 1980s, mountaineering was a bold adventure, a realm of brave dreamers, when scaling towering peaks showcased exceptional skills, bravery and persistence. Unlike today’s ease of climbing, due to advanced technology and tools, the journey to those high summits was risky and uncertain, meant only for the courageous few who accepted the daring quest.
On July 7, 1983, High Altitude Porter Sultan Ullah Baig, 40, from Gulmit, Gojal Valley – Hunza, along with an international team, embarked on a daring expedition to conquer the challenging Southwest ridge (Jaglote side) of Rakaposhi. The treacherous route had only been previously scaled by Mike Banks and Tom Patey in 1958.
As the climbers faced the unforgiving slopes, their determination led them to achieve an incredible feat.
According to the American Alpine Club’s website, on August 2, 1983, a team comprising Bertrand Borrey, Daniel Bogaert, Arthur Delobbe, and Sultan Ullah Baig reached the pinnacle of Rakaposhi at an elevation of 7788 meters (25,552 feet).
However, the descent turned into a harrowing ordeal when an unexpected avalanche struck during the return journey. Michel Bodard, a member of the second assault party, was tragically swept away by an avalanche. Despite falling 650 feet, he miraculously survived but sustained severe injuries, including a broken leg, thumb, punctured lung, concussion, and multiple contusions. The team rallied to his aid, transporting him to Camp IV and eventually arranging a helicopter rescue at an altitude of 20,150 feet.
The gripping saga continued to unfold as on August 5, 1983, Sultan Ullah Baig, against the advice of his team, chose to descend alone, driven by the desire to share the news with his fellow countrymen. A tragedy struck once more as he vanished between Camps II and I. Despite a relentless five-day search, his body was never found.
After 40 years, on August 10, 2023, a surprising turn of events took place. Sultan Ullah Baig’s family received unexpected news about a body that had been found above Camp 1 of Rakaposhi. This development sparked a mix of emotions within them.
The initial reports indicated that the body could possibly be that of an Austrian individual who had gone missing during an expedition back in 1983 or 1984. The details are still emerging, but this revelation added another layer to complexity to the situation.
In response to this information, Sultan Ullah Baig’s three sons – Noor Shah, Aziz Muhammad and Babar Karim – embarked on a journey, traveling to Minapin village, near the Rakaposhi Base Camp, their hearts filled with a glimmer of hope that the body might finally provide a closure to their father’s long-standing mystery.
Given that the body found is decades old, identity of the deceased individual cannot be ascertained easily. The local administration has, therefore, decided to get samples for DNA testing before burying it in Minapin.
The DNA profile will be used to establish identity of the deceased individual.
