Gilgit - BaltistanPakistan

Nazir Sabir speaks at the Aga Khan University

Nazir Sabir making a presentation at the AKU auditorium
Nazir Sabir making a presentation at the AKU auditorium

by Nur

Karachi, May 07: Nazir Sabir, the first Pakistani to set foot on the Mount Everest, shared stories of his mountaineering adventures in a fully packed auditorium at the Aga Khan University, here in Karachi. He had been invited by the university as part of its special lecture program series, being held to commemorate 25 years of AKU. Sabir belongs to Gilgit – Baltistan, a native of Hunza valley. Nazir Sabir is also the first civilian president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan.

A banner at the AKU entrance
A banner at the AKU entrance

Sabir, in a very light manner, told the audience about his brushes with death at different mountains. He also said that at two occasions, once at K2 and then at the Mount Everest, he was so mesmerized by ‘the drama of nature’ that he felt enlightenment; awareness of the magnitude and purpose of his being.

Sabir shared breathtaking photographs from many of his adventures, including successful ones and the not-so-successful ones. He specifically mentioned failure of his first attempt on the Everest, during the Golden Jubilee celebrations of Pakistan. He said that this failure made the Everest not only a personal but also a national challenge for him. About the cause of failure he said that ‘ferocious Tibetan winds’ made all their climbing efforts futile. He also talked about his companions, fallen and alive, including Reinhold Messner, Scott Fischer, several Japanese climbers, including Eiho Otani, his K2 summit partner, and his Pakistani comrads, including Ashraf Aman, the first Pakistani to climb K2,  Brig (r) Sher Khan, Rajab Shah and Meherban, all four hailing from the Gojal – Hunza valley.

Sabir finally talked about his successful attempt on Mount Everest, where he was able to ‘place the Hilali parcham’ on top of the world. The auditorium resounded with applauses as Sabir showed a slide in which he stood on top of the world, with a Pakistani falg in his hands.

Later, responding to questions, Sabir said that despite of the immense natural conditions available in Pakistan for developing skills of the mountaineers, no serious efforts were being made by the authorities. He lamented the ‘absence of 46 percent of Pakistan’s population (the females) in the mountains’. He said that in 2007 he made an effort to send a group of females to the mountains for training purpose but because of the political turmoil at that time the efforts couldn’t materialize. 

He also told the audience that a group of aspiring young mountaineers are being trained at the Passu glacier region.  

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  1. Dear Nur

    What a crisp introduction of Nazir Sabir in the context of his tremendous achievements in mountaineering expedition and adventure! Indeed he has made us all proud and surely has inspired score of youth from Gilgit – Baltistan; which I prefer to call Zemistan. His deeds need to be emulated by the younger generation of the area.

    A small correction to set the record right; Nazir Sabir also comes from Gojal, hailing from Raminji/ Kahirabad village in the upper Hunza region, beside the ones you have named in your note.

    Well done, thanks

    Mutabiat Shah, Islamabad

  2. Congrats to Mr. Nazir Sabir, no doubts HE is shining star of Gojal Hunza. But, I don’t agree with Mutabiat- often he do agree that He is from the vally of BABA GUNDI Chhepursaan Ramanj and Khairabad. One more explaination can be applied here-

  3. Well, Nazir sb is a national Hero; he in fact made all Pakistan proud for his Magnificent Achievements in mountaineering expedition and adventure! And the world identifies him as Pakistani



  4. Mr. Nazir Sabir is our HERO we proud on his remarkable achievement in mountaineering adventure.


    Salman karim

  5. well.. this is an appreciatable moment for us all… he is in fact a national hero.. his achievements are a pride for us.. we all wish him best in his field.

  6. Nazir Sabir
    A well know figure, though mountaineering and expedition, He is the Hero.
    The HERO, well he has the personality, who every one does knows, I have had the chance to see him many time. But did not find any Heroism or the defined ism in him.
    Let us see, He become the first to get going to the all the top of the mountain of the world, well done, what he achieve, lots and lost of appreciation and applause, in the form of money.
    Well he than retune to his native village and used his fame and contact to the benefit of the people. He did that!!!!!!!!!!!!
    No he did not , he simply changed every thing, well he once a decade visits his natives, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, well that is the question.
    He left his ancestral culture and heritage, which made him the Nazir Sabir, where still today people pray for him but it’s not good or of any interest to him, there is no commercial or artificial love or gain.

    Why he is a Hero, what he did not for Hunza, not for his native Gojal (which he never proclaimed) or Raminj. Ok he never got chance, well he did. He was elected, but what he did no result.

    Well for me a school teacher in Ramij he more greter and a real Hero then him. Because he is giving them something. At lest!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    What ever he did was for him self and his family, never for his community. He is more of a shop form where he earns for himself. NOT

    Should anyone be proud, well that is the question. ………………………

  7. The Legend Nazir Sabir we are proud of you for your achivements, but now its time to come again to do work
    for the betterment of your nation, the nation wants the Honest
    leader like you.

  8. Yes there is no doubt of Nazir Sabir’s achievements but me much inspired by him as he is the one and only who for the first time in history of Pakistan won seat from Hunza for Pakistan Peoples Party
    if I m not wrong
    pray for ………..

  9. Nazir Sabir is one of the few exceptional individuals who have contributed positively to the image building of the country. I remember the first attempt (I along with my family were based in Katmandu- working with Ministry of Wildlife and Forest ) by Pakistani team under Nazir’s leadership and the team could not make it to the top of Mount Everest. The team included famous Rajab Shah, Meherban, and col Sher Khan and some of our friends from Baltistan and some from down country. On the way back from the mountains the team had a taste of home made fresh vegetables and dal at our home in Katmandu. Nazir was truly determined to make it and he made it the second time. Although it was too late for AKU but still it is great to see Nazir speaking and sharing his experience of wilderness. Can or should we organize an event/s of similer kind and invite not only Nazir Sabir but other friends such as Rajab Shah, Mehrban Shah, Qurban Muhammad Muhammadullah and others- who have demonstrated their skills, courage and determination to acheive exceptional permornace and always challange fragile natural environment.

  10. no words for the veteran mountaineer, time and history speaks of the heroes! heads off and feel proud having the son’s from the Gojal /HUnza.
    i personally wish to have his guidance to pave my rout for becoming a top climber…

  11. I agree with Farhad that Nazir Sabir is a great mountaineer but a failed politician. but the question is how to decouple these two dimensions? He is honored for mountaineering not for politics. better for Nazir Sabir to leave the politics if he wants to sustain the respect. otherwise there is danger of losing it.
    Is siyasat may izat tay saadat bee gayee

  12. A man with courage Nazir Sabir a legend of Hunza crossed a mile stone steped on the top of the Mount Everest and gave a pride to the nation as well as to the people of Northern areas certainly he deserves the appreciation.
    AKU and Higher Education Commission should arrange such programme in the national universities as well and call our heros who ever has earned name for himself and for our beloved country and provide the youth the opportunity to listen their heros.

    Ali Masud


  13. Dear Friends,
    AKU seminar where he shared his experience with the audience was not a political gathering. Some of my friends here on this forum criticized his political issues, which is incorrect. Although, they know he is a world known hero, he makes your nation pride, people from around the world respect him on his achievements, then why not we?????. Dear friends don’t be jealous, narrow minded. Just respect your hero’s.

    Dear Nur bhai,
    I appreciate Mutabiat sb for pointing out this matter, that he belongs to Raminji / Khairabad Gojal. I think it is important to show the proper place where he born, because Nazir always proud to be a Pakistani and love to be Raminjik.

    Ejaz Karim

  14. Mr.Nazir Sabir replied me when i mailed him this report Title “Nazir speaks at the Aga Khan University” by Mr. Nur.

    Mr. Nazir Sabir thought that i have written this report so he addressed me, although i haven’t written about this.
    i request to Nur to notify this and make corrections according to Mr.Nazir Sabir.
    He requested for corrections and its own words are here under:

    Dear Sharifullah

    I would really like to thank you for your kind efforts to give this humble event a huge level of publicity. While I sincerely appreciate all what you are doing I would also like to aks you to make a serious effort to please make following corrections of the spellings and changes.

    1. Reinhold Messner, Scott Fischer.

    2. Please also make sure to mention, Eiho Otani who I mentioned as my summit partner on K2 and Ashraf Aman who I never fail to mention in my talks as the first Pakistani. We need to open our vision and we should avoid to Gojalize or Shimshalize our international heroes. At least mountaineering stays above local politics!

    3. Please also note I didn’t lament at the females instead lamented at the national policies who have been ignoring this sport as a whole on national level that’s how it needs to be reflected in your report.

    Hope you understand what i mean!

    Best regards

    Nazir Sabir

  15. Come on guys! If Nazir Sabir is a failed politician, then who else is a successful one, in the context of Hunza, in particular.
    To me a person is called successful, when he/she is able to achieve the set key goals in life.

    As a matter of fact, Nazir Sabir excelled both in his mountaineering ventures and political pursuits. He not only scaled summits of both the K2 and Everest, but also became the NAs Council member from Hunza by defeated his arch rival in the elections, which once used to be thought by many as an impossible task for a commoner of the area to achieve.

    Nazir Sabir is therefore a successful person on both counts, not only in mountaineering, but also in politic. We all need to be realistic and straightforward in our judgments, setting aside petty politics and personal liking disliking.

    Mutabiat Shah, Islamabad

  16. Mr. Nazir Sabir mailed me to do some corrections so its requested that to the report writer Mr. Nur that kindly note the following requests made of Nazir sabir;

    please make following corrections of the spellings and changes.

    1. Reinhold Messner, Scott Fischer.

    2. Please also make sure to mention, Eiho Otani who I mentioned as my summit partner on K2 and Ashraf Aman who I never fail to mention in my talks as the first Pakistani.

    3. Please also note I didn’t lament at the females instead lamented at the national policies who have been ignoring this sport as a whole on national level that’s how it needs to be reflected in your report.
    Hope you understand what i mean!
    Best regards

  17. It does not matter if Nazir Sabir is a seccesful person or not.
    Is it not enough that he climbed the highest mountains as a mountaineer and that he tried to make the world worth -while living in as a polotician ? What is the most important is that we, not
    only Pakistani but also people living in the various parts of the world including us Japanese, listen to him , try to understand the messages he has got from the mountains.
    I do hope that Pakistan gouvernment tries hard so that many more tourists , trekkers and climbers could visit the beautiful land without worry or fear. I also hope that young Pakistani challenge the beautifu and awesome mountains in their own land.
    Last I hope that Pakistani girls can enjoy Korakoram trekking as I ,thanks to everyone and everything,am able to do myself.

  18. Mr. Nazir Sabir As I know him:
    We are proud of Mr. Nazir Sabir, as son of the soil who scaled several peaks and the Highest Mountains of Pakistan. We were students at the Shah Karim Hostel in Gilgit and he used to be the Honorary Secretary of Literary Society (Bazm e Adab) of the boarders. He was so much comitted and task oriented that he would always hold the Bazm e Adab regularly and used to invite our scholars and teachers of the time as the Chief guest for those occasions.
    he has got unique sense of humor and a highly socializing and friendly manners for people of different cultures and regional denominations. He could have been a successful physician or professional engineer, but bcause of his elder brother’s accidental demise during mountaineering; perhaps he decided to continue the mission of his elder brother.
    His second biggest achievement was winning the NALA elections during 1990s and serving as the Advisor on Education. It was during that period that together with efforts from the The Pak Wakhi Tajik Cultural association (WTCA) he also won representation for the Wakhi language on PBC, Gilgit. The Wakhi Barnoma sadayi Bam e Dunya has now become a successful program over the past more than a decade by producing sveral voice artists and providing prt-time engagements to students and artists alike.
    Mr. Sabir! As a friend, as a citizen of Hunza-Gojal valley and as a citizen of this great nation-Pakistan, I salute you and all your life-time achievements.
    May almighty Allah give the courage and zeal to future generations to follow your foot steps. Amen!!

  19. I would like to congratulate Nazir Sabir for all his achievements and share the pride as a Pakistani in whatever our hero has achieved in the given circumstances. I can see there are few people who are burning with jealousy and there is enough fire out there to keep them burning within as yet again our hidden hero has shown greater qualities of a leader through his amazing talks and presentations at AKU and across the globe. I think few of the Iggie’s like Khameto and Thu Roug Rost (TRR)who don’t even dare to give their names are some from the other political camp who are paid for defaming people. Who cares if this little TRR isn’t impressed and keep worrying about Nazir Sabir being self centered. You are ignorant to the extent of not knowing about projects like Hasegawa School and over a dozen projects that he has been vital part to establish across this country. He is one of the only few climbers who are honoured by some of the oldest mountaineering clubs like American Alpine Club, The Alpine Club of UK and the Polish Mountaineering Federation. I don’t blame you as your message speaks all it can about your small thinking and petty wording. Although he is a national hero yet he is a very humble man and a world leader. you two should be ashamed of your narrow and small thinking to localize him to his village politics. In fact it was his greatness to step down from where he was and to come into politics to serve his people. He did better than most at the time although he had immense challenges like sectarian politics that his all time political rivals played with and your peers even used money to disturb him as he had defeated them as the first son of the soil.

    Keep burning you small people as the oil is hot enough while we celebrate our hero who will always be remembered for his all time and taller achievements that will go down the history including his political success that will remain taller than Everest! Nazir Sabir, We salute you and your parents for your service to this country and for humanity and keep the good work going without listening to these little paid robots!

  20. Hi great climber of Asia and muslim world.Proud to have a planet level Nazir Sabir of Northern Pakistan.Thanks for dessiminating all the mountain related infos at AKU packed auditorium.ONe thing makes it clear that mountainers are not smokers and they do,t hug heatr attacks and fatal stroke.Will pray for long life of all who know Nazir Sabir.
    Fortunate were those who were present at AKU hall at that particular day..

    Dr Karim
    Buni chitral
    Aga Khan hospital

  21. I find the variety of opinions on the hero under discussion. I am feeling very proud to see someone coming from a tiny village and doing a talk at AKU that I to me was highest of standards from any angle as applauded by all those who were lucky to be able to get to the very well attended program. While I would like to congratulate Mr. Firoz Rasul and his team for their thoughtful selection and for putting this unusual talk together in a highly organized manner I would also congratulate our national hero to come up to the expectations of every audience that seemed very rich in its own right where every one was highly educated and learned to be able to appreciate his over nearly 1.5 hrs long talk. It was so obvious from some 550 plus deadly silent audience that was so deeply involved the way Nazir was able to attracting the total attention through his magical moves as he dragged them all along from mountain to mountain tops. The pin drop silence remained throughout the talk mostly as he was able to take everyone along the pictures and his very fine way of expression of his real life stories that are so unique. We all know several people have climbed mountains here in pakistan but it is the style and the very philosophy for which Nazir stands all out up atop and there is no comparison in very way he has taken from climbing to his social work across the northern belt, his voice for the environment and he will always remain an exception even in the field of politics as well not only in Hunza but across the Northern Pakistan for his struggle against corruption and constant struggle for merit. Lastly I would like tell some his fellow men from Hunza to not feel too jealous for what he is as it is a natural phenomena and you simply can’t weigh him from a small perspective of his village, where he has done lots more than the entire village people using money from his own pocket besides so many things from providing clean water to the entire village even during winter months as we all know Raminji was one of the most difficult villages in the entire north where women used to carry ice from some 4 km to melt for 4 months or carry river water on their backs. This Durug Rost (liar) kid seems so be totally ignorant about his own village and needs to go back and find out from his mother as to what was the difference in her life before those water tanks were built …..

  22. Well, I am one of the lucky people to know him from a close proximity. It is indeed a pleasure to read the comments ve been made by the young guys of the regioin. let me add, he in not only a star of the hunza and gojal, not only Gilgit Baltistan, and yet not only Pakistan, he is an international star and i ‘d like you guys to rank hin at such height rather at a regional level.
    I am sure non of the GB personality has been such famous as he earned it for the GB, and he is a label of fame for the whole region.

    We salute him for his courageous personality and his various skills which include politics, social standing and and the knowledge he bears. such people mare rarely seen and are born once in a century.
    We love you sir:)

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